-- Previously painted Surfaces continued:
dulled with sandpaper, or equivalent. By ignoring this practice, the new paint may not adhere well and future coats could peel off when repainted.
2. For previously painted multiple coated surfaces, it is very important to also test the layers of paint for adhesion to each other. This is to make sure that the old paint won’t peel off and take the new paint with it. First, cut a one inch long “X,’ in the old paint film with a razor blade or sharp knife. It’s best to do this in a few different areas. Then, apply a strip of Scotch tape or masking tape over the “X”, and rub the tape on firmly. Then pull it off quickly.
If the old paint comes off with the tape, you have poor adhesion, usually created from re-painting over grime.
2. If the old paint films have poor adhesion, we do not recommend painting over with any water paint, including our Milk Paint. The old paint should be removed by stripping or sanding and scraping. If you don’t remove it, the new paint may lift off the old paint, at least in some areas.
4. Apply one coat of Milk Paint, with Extra-Bond added (in a ratio of 2 parts paint, 1 part Extra-Bond). This will work on most clean painted surfaces where previous layers are sound and not weakly bonded due to improper cleaning prior to painting.

We Do NOT recommend Milk Paint for exterior use as it will water spot in the rain (except white paint.) However, a clear finish will seal the paint and prevent water-spotting. Traditionally, Milk Paint was made waterproof with the addition of an oil, such as linseed, poppy, or peanut oil. We do not recommend this as the oil may cause problems later with mildew or brittleness of the paint film. And, even with the oil added, the paint may still water spot.

The colors will vary slightly from batch to batch due to minor variations in the natural earth materials. If you wish to change the hues, or make tints of the colors, (some are shown in the color card,) start with Snow White for lighter tints and add colors to suit your taste. You can add Pitch Black or Green to a color to deepen the tone. For example: 6 tblsps. of Pitch Black to one pint (6 oz.) of Lexington Green makes a very accurate early Windsor chair dark green. The best way to develop your “ideal color” is to start with a paper cup and some measuring spoons. First, measure one tbsp. water into the cup, then one tbsp. of major color, then add a fraction of a tsp. of other color. Stir well and test on scrap wood or even cardboard. This first quick test will show you which direction to go from there. After a few tests you should come up with the desired result. Then simply multiply your measurements and make up the needed quantity. If you are going to use a sealer over your paint, try it first on your test piece to check the final color.

Decorative finishing, such as graining, marbleizing, sponging, crackling, etc. is an art and nor a science. Therefore we cannot stress too strongly the importance of testing every step of your finishing project on scrap or at least on a rest area before applying your first coat on your project.
For example, if you were going to finish a vertical surface with our Antique Crackle, you test should duplicate this condition so that if a problem such as running and sagging occurs, you will know about it in advance and adjust your brushing technique. Practice & testing cannot be overemphasized. The many books and courses available will help to guide you, but nothing takes the place of practice with small test samples; mix small batches in paper cups.

Just as in Colonial times, and earlier, our Milk Paint and Primer contain lime, milk protein, clays and earth pigments. We use no lead, no chemical preservatives, and no hydrocarbons or other petroleum derivatives. The other ingredients
are inert materials.

When wet, our paint has a slight earthy milk odor which will disappear in a few hours. The dry hydrated lime is strongly alkaline. It becomes “neutral” when combined with acidic milk protein and water, and becomes totally inert after it dries.

If the paint powder is kept dry and air-tight, it should last indefinitely. If exposed to air or dampness for any period, the active lime becomes inert and turns to chalk. When this happens, the paint won’t mix up properly and If applied can powder off. We recommend storing unused powder in its original package and placed in a glass or metal container with a tight lid.

For technical assistance, telephone 707-962-9480 during normal business hours,
9 to 5, West Coast time, Monday through Friday, except on holidays.

Thousands of satisfied users attest to quality results using our products. We want you to be satisfied as well. If you are not happy with any purchase from us, return unused portion for a prompt refund. Include the sales slip showing the date and amount paid. Call 707-962-9480 for return authorization.

All statements, technical information and the above recommendations made are based on tests we believe to be reliable, but the accuracy or completeness thereof is not guaranteed, and the following is made in lieu of all warranties, express or implied. Seller’s and manufacturer’s only obligation shall be to replace such quantity of the product proved to be defective. Neither seller nor manufacturer shall be liable for any injury, loss or damage, direct or consequential, arising out of the use of, or the inability to use, the product. Before using, user shall determine the suitability of the product for the intended use and user assumes all risk and liability whatsoever in connection therewith.
No statement or recommendation nor contained herein shall have any force or effect unless in agreement signed by officers of seller and manufacturer.

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Wood Finish Supply Quality Materials For Professional Finishing

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Wood Finish Supply
Revised: 87/20/2007 Comments to the author: wfs@woodfinishsupply.com
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